Reproducciones de SNES.

tidus12589 escribió:Hola buenas,

Me compre el siguiente programador eprom-
http://www.sivava.com/buynow.php?pd=A051

Como no tenia ningun puerto paralelo me compre el siguiente adaptador-
http://www.cablematic.com/buscador/ub60 ... is_/?pag=1

Al entrar en el programa de willem todo bien al intentar -test Hardware-
Error hardware: check power & connection.

y asi toda la mañana alguien me podrai hechar una mano?
Gracias

magno escribió:

tidus12589 escribió:Hola buenas,

Me compre el siguiente programador eprom-
http://www.sivava.com/buynow.php?pd=A051

Como no tenia ningun puerto paralelo me compre el siguiente adaptador-
http://www.cablematic.com/buscador/ub60 ... is_/?pag=1

Al entrar en el programa de willem todo bien al intentar -test Hardware-
Error hardware: check power & connection.

y asi toda la mañana alguien me podrai hechar una mano?
Gracias

A mí nunca me ha funcionado el Willem con un cable emulador de puerto paralelo... creo que si no tienes un puerto paralelo de verdad, no tienes nada que hacer para que funcione el programador.
A ver que te dicen los demás, que quizá alguno lo haya conseguido hacer funcionar, pero en el foro de MCUMall me dijeron que no servían ese tipo de cables.

aaron2011 escribió:PD;hola,de nuevo tengo otra duda....,sigo el pie de la letra el tuto de josete para el juego Soul Blazer,todo claro hasta el punto en que renombro la ROM ya parcheada a IN.SMC,y ejecuto el bankswap...(asta hay....,no me aparecen los 2 archivos OUT_0.bin,OUT_1.bin),le doy doble clic al .bat,se abre y pone -el sistema no puede hallar el archivo especificado...-,arrastro el IN.SMC encima,doy a enter y me sale un cartel de -rom guardada como OUT_x.bin-,pero no se donde....,alguien me alumbra sobre el asunto!!!!

aaron2011 escribió:que va tio,lo tego en una carpeta en el escritorio,si me explicaras como se hacer para cortar la rom con el windhex y se expade para que la segunda mitad llegue a 1 mb (8 mb),esnigls y yo no lo controlo casi na....,gracias tio

tidus12589 escribió:

magno escribió:

tidus12589 escribió:Hola buenas,

Me compre el siguiente programador eprom-
http://www.sivava.com/buynow.php?pd=A051

Como no tenia ningun puerto paralelo me compre el siguiente adaptador-
http://www.cablematic.com/buscador/ub60 ... is_/?pag=1

Al entrar en el programa de willem todo bien al intentar -test Hardware-
Error hardware: check power & connection.

y asi toda la mañana alguien me podrai hechar una mano?
Gracias

A mí nunca me ha funcionado el Willem con un cable emulador de puerto paralelo... creo que si no tienes un puerto paralelo de verdad, no tienes nada que hacer para que funcione el programador.
A ver que te dicen los demás, que quizá alguno lo haya conseguido hacer funcionar, pero en el foro de MCUMall me dijeron que no servían ese tipo de cables.

FFantasy6 escribió:Ya tengo el Mario RPG sin usar el Mario RPG

josete2k escribió:

FFantasy6 escribió:Ya tengo el Mario RPG sin usar el Mario RPG

Quoteando a mi amigo FFantasy6...


Más vale tarde que nunca... Tras romper dos marioRPG por hacer las cosas con sueño y con prisas... me he quedado sin Marios y he tirado de otra placa supestamente compatible...

Mario RPG funcionando.

rubeneros89 escribió:Como cual?

josete2k escribió:

FFantasy6 escribió:Ya tengo el Mario RPG sin usar el Mario RPG

Quoteando a mi amigo FFantasy6...


Más vale tarde que nunca... Tras romper dos marioRPG por hacer las cosas con sueño y con prisas... me he quedado sin Marios y he tirado de otra placa supestamente compatible...

Mario RPG funcionando.

magno escribió:¡Brutal!

Menos mal que alguien se ha metido por fin a mejorar la traducción que había, que era bastante flojita

josete2k escribió:

magno escribió:¡Brutal!

Menos mal que alguien se ha metido por fin a mejorar la traducción que había, que era bastante flojita

¿Tan floja es? Yo estoy aprendiendo cómo van los gráficos en la rom y me estoy limitando a hacer pruebas.

FFantasy6 escribió:Que no, total, estando en ingles ya ...

That's a Star 0cean cart that I put a 29L3211 flash memory on. Common practice has been to wire in a 27C322 EPROM. The 27C322 is a compatible replacement, but it only comes as DIP. The only way to use it on the cart is to wire in each individual pin. This has obvious drawbacks. The 29L3211 is in SOP form, same as the mask ROMs found on the cart. And since the pinout is more or less the same, it can be installed with out any rewiring. The catch is that it requires 3.3v and not 5v like what the cart supplies. You have to step down the 5v to 3.3v in order to use it.

If you look in the data sheet for the 29L3211 (linked above) you'll see that you need to put 3.3v to pins 1, 23 and 33 for read mode. That is why I lifted those pins. And actually, you don't have to lift pin 1 since that pad isn't connected to anything. Leaving it down will give the pin more strength (the pins are really fragile, especially when you lift them). After everything is said and done, I recommend using hot glue to secure the lifted pins in place. Hot glue is great because it will securely hold the pins in place to safeguard against accidental breakage, but it is also fairly easy to remove if you ever want to restore the cart to stock.

The goal is to achieve 3.3v, and there's a number of ways you can do it. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I really can't say what the best way to do this is. I used a voltage divider, but I suppose you could use a voltage regulator. I've seen people use diodes to successfully step down the voltage for flash memory. Again, I don't know if there's any drawbacks to using a voltage divider, but that's what I used.

Just be aware that the 29L3211 requires 3.3v with a 10% range. I don't believe you can damage the chip if the voltage is too low, but if it's too high you'll fry the chip. There's a 10% range, so you can probably go as high as 3.6v, but I would recommend trying to get as close to 3.3v as possible. Lower better than higher.

If you look at the pic, I have a wire going to the capacitor. It's going to the NEGATIVE side of the cap, that's where I got the ground from for my voltage divider. I'm pretty sure you can take the ground from anywhere, but the cap just seemed like the best place to me.

If you look at the pic, there's a surface mounted resistor between the battery and the mask ROM. This is where I took the 5v from. This is the same as taking it from the solder pad, but I decided to take it from the resistor for space reasons. I'm not sure if it matters where you take the 5v from, but it just seemed like the best idea to take it AFTER the cap, and even better, AFTER the resistor. Also note that the resistor connects 5v to ground, so you have to take it from the appropriate side. If you take it from the wrong side, you'll have ground on both sides of the voltage divider so I would think the output voltage would be zero.

If you look at the Wikipedia page for voltage dividers you can see that it's a fairly simply thing. The Wiki page will also give you the formula you need to figure out the correct values for the two resistors needed (V out = R2 divided by R1+R2 multiplied by V in). But if you don't feel like doing the math, there are calculators online that will do it for you. Like this one. I forget the values of the resistors I used, but using that calculator, it looks like a 50ohm and a 100ohm resistor will do the trick (3.3333333v). I think I might have used slightly different values and ended up with about 3.2v. It is important to realize that it DOES matter which side of the voltage divider each resistor goes on. They are not interchangeable. If you have two different value resistors, you'll get different output voltages depending on what side you put them on. It should look like this:

(Vin=5v)-----(R1=50ohm)-----(Vout=3.3v)-----(R2=100ohm)-----(Ground)

And like I always say, if you don't know what you're doing, for God's sake, please don't try to mess with video game carts. If you're inexperienced with soldering and working with these kinds of components, please don't make an attempt.

It is worth noting that the common Willem programmers cannot program the 29L3211. I was gonna make an adapter to use for myself, but I don't plan on using the 29L3211 again. Like all these other old memories, it's a phased out part. You can only find them used, unless it's new old stock.

I don't plan on using this chip again because I don't plan on modifying Star Ocean carts anymore. The expanded version (96Mbit) is playable on the SNES PowerPak, which is why I went through the trouble of getting permission and uploading this hacked version to RHDN. And Retro Zone makes a Star Ocean reproduction cart now (from scratch - no donors used). It is unnecessary to modify real Star Ocean carts.

josete2k escribió:La segunda maskrom es igual en la versión original que en la dejap, así que es ridículo cambiarla.

josete2k escribió:A ver que tal...


http://youtu.be/KqKO-T-h9nY

Bueno, lista la intro... a por otra cosa.

http://youtu.be/sAFKwYVVp1o

¿Alguien se anima a colaborar?

a ver si alguien me puede resolver una duda tonta que tengo . ya hice otro juego y no recuerdo si lo hice de una forma u otra.
si voy a grabar un .smc de 2,1 mb a una tsop hace falta ampliarlo a 4mb? , yo juraria que no pero me ha entrao una pajara ahora y por mas que busco no lo encuentro.

parodius escribió:Que tal chicos? ando buscando un desoldador y me he topado con este por ebay:

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.es/viewitem? ... cmd=VIDESC

Alguien lo tiene? O me recomendais otro?
Gracias!! Un saludo y feliz navidul

rubeneros89 escribió:

parodius escribió:Que tal chicos? ando buscando un desoldador y me he topado con este por ebay:

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.es/viewitem? ... cmd=VIDESC

Alguien lo tiene? O me recomendais otro?
Gracias!! Un saludo y feliz navidul

opino como josete. yo tambien lo tengo y al principio va de lujo pero luego puede cortar pistas y suele quedarse obstruido y tienes q limpiarlo a menudo, por lo mdnos en mi caso.

muchas gracias josete, estaba casi totalmrnte seguro, pero me rondaba la duda

Fernandogd escribió:Buenas noches,

En primer lugar me gustaría pedir disculpas por mal español. Felicitaciones al autor del tema está muy bien hecho y didáctica.
Gostarai si el juego no era STARFOX2 lento usando el chip JUNTA STUNTRACE que utiliza la FX1.

The first version of the chip, marked
"MARIO CHIP 1", commonly called the
Super FX, is clocked with a 21 MHz
signal, but an internal clock speed
divider halved it to 10.5 MHz. This
chip can be found in some early
cartridges of StarFox. Later on, the
design was revised to become the
GSU-1.. Unlike earlier chips, this
version was able to reach 21 MHz. A
third version, called GSU-2, commonly
called the Super FX 2 and also clocked
at 21 MHz, added a larger address
bus. [2]
All versions of the Super FX chip are
functionally compatible in terms of
their instruction set. The differences
arise in how they are packaged, their
pinout, and their internal clock speed.
As a result of changing the package
when creating the GSU-2, more
external pins were available and
assigned for addressing—as a result a
larger amount of external ROM or RAM
can be accessed.