[Hilo Oficial] Nvidia Pascal

FZ1 escribió:Les paso una captura de un sli de 1080 en bf1 con unas temperaturas y carga que me extrañan. Veo poca temperatura y carga para ir a 1080p ultra 60 fps. También les paso puntuación en Uniginie y temperaturas que alcanzaron.
Lo pongo más que nada por si veis algo raro o que pueda estar haciendo mal.
Gracias.
http://subefotos.com/ver/?786d61a7f63a6 ... ccb80o.jpg

FZ1 escribió:Les paso una captura de un sli de 1080 en bf1 con unas temperaturas y carga que me extrañan. Veo poca temperatura y carga para ir a 1080p ultra 60 fps. También les paso puntuación en Uniginie y temperaturas que alcanzaron.
Lo pongo más que nada por si veis algo raro o que pueda estar haciendo mal.
Gracias.
http://subefotos.com/ver/?786d61a7f63a6 ... ccb80o.jpg

Beacher escribió:Confirmo lo de los drivers de Nvidia. Con una 980Ti tengo el GTA V todo a full, todo, AA x16, y el MSSA 2X,reflejos MSSA 2Xy, a ojo diría que va a 45-50 fps. Con la 1080Ti volaremos!

kikomanco escribió:@pdriko31 resolucion¿? y parametros graficos? ademas una 1070 no es una 1080

pdriko31 escribió:

kikomanco escribió:@pdriko31 resolucion¿? y parametros graficos? ademas una 1070 no es una 1080

1080p,ultra mssax2,60fps clavados menos en la ciudad,igual que siempre.

kikomanco escribió:

pdriko31 escribió:

kikomanco escribió:@pdriko31 resolucion¿? y parametros graficos? ademas una 1070 no es una 1080

1080p,ultra mssax2,60fps clavados menos en la ciudad,igual que siempre.

pues eso es mas problema de micro que de grafica, por que a 1080p con esa grafica te deberia de ir sin despeinarse, soy yo y juego en 4k y sin problemas, eso si, siempre juego con la camara inboard, es la manera que mas me gusta jugar a los juego de conduccion

troon95 escribió:

FZ1 escribió:Les paso una captura de un sli de 1080 en bf1 con unas temperaturas y carga que me extrañan. Veo poca temperatura y carga para ir a 1080p ultra 60 fps. También les paso puntuación en Uniginie y temperaturas que alcanzaron.
Lo pongo más que nada por si veis algo raro o que pueda estar haciendo mal.
Gracias.
http://subefotos.com/ver/?786d61a7f63a6 ... ccb80o.jpg

¿Un sli de 1080 para jugar a 1080p y a solo 60fps? ¿Vaya exageración no? Claro que tienen poca carga, con una sola 1080 ya puedes jugar a ese juego a 4k y 60fps.

RRuco1981 escribió:Le he ganado el pulso al ansia y he cancelado la founders.. para gastar esta pasta paso de comerme throttle a los 15 minutos de juego. Esperaré a las primeras custom.

virtus escribió:tios una cosa que se me pasaba por alto ......dara talla mi i7 3770k (4.2) o necesitara mas chicha para sacarle todo su potencial a la 1080ti???

Titán_Salvaje_ escribió:

RRuco1981 escribió:Le he ganado el pulso al ansia y he cancelado la founders.. para gastar esta pasta paso de comerme throttle a los 15 minutos de juego. Esperaré a las primeras custom.

yo tambien pensé en cancelar , por que me gusta que venga ya oceada , pero realizarle oc (sin tocar el voltaje) es facil con el msi afterburner simplemente hay que poner la barra de power limit al maximo y el de la temperatura a 90º para que no haga throttle , subir las rpm de la turbina para no dañar la gpu he ir controlando la temperatura que no supere los 85º (de todas formas con la turbina al 75% no llegara ni a 80º) he ir subiendo poco a poco el core y cada 25 mhz pasarle el unigine heaven hasta encontrar el punto de estabilidad

por otra parte todas las gpu que he visto sin tocar nada llegan hasta los 1800mhz , a esa frecuencia hace throttle con las rpm de la turbina por defecto , pero solo basta con subir la turbina al 60% 65% y problema resuelto , la turbina hace ruido a partir de 80% , luego esta la estetica me gusta mas que las custom y tambien pilla menos polvo

@barcinodrg

Disfrutala , a mi me llega a finales de esta semana o la que viene

TiN escribió: You saw it first here

Intro

This is not another GTX 1080 Ti review, but a extreme overclocking modding guide. There is no much benefit doing all this for watercooling or aircooling, but required when GPU is frozen to chilly -196°C. Fair bit extra voltage might help reaching higher performance marvels.

[url=https://xdevs.com/doc/xDevs.com/ocg_1080ti/psm_face.jpg[/url][/url] [url=https://xdevs.com/doc/xDevs.com/ocg_1080ti/psm_back.jpg[/url][/url]

This guide is evolution of my usual "uncork series", with all good traditions set by previous guides:

* Reference GTX 1080/1070 - Uncorking Pascal
* Removing power limits on any NV card
* Using Raspberry Pi to control your VGA VRM
* EVGA GTX 980 Ti K|NGP|N OC Guide
* Reference GTX 780/780Ti - Big KEPLER
* EVGA GTX 680 Classified - Uncorking guide
* Reference GTX 680 - Uncorking KEPLER

Let's study plain reference EVGA GTX 1080 Ti which is also called "founders edition". This is the baseline card, which we all get to know first before going any specific custom board designs.

As usual, you are on your own alone, even when doing even little simple mod. If you card/system bursts in flames or just simply stop working, do not try to RMA it or expect a support from manufacturers. Anything below this paragraph in this article is *NOT* covered by any kind of warranty, and provided *AS IS only* for education purpose, without support from manufacturer or NVIDIA. So yes, "don't try this at home". Any RMA attempt of soldered card is easily diagnosed today and will be rejected.

Interesting to see NVIDIA's return on nerfing memory bus width by unpopulated memory chips on fully routed 384-bit memory bus on PCB. That's happening because reuse of PCB from Titan X (Pascal) card. There is no much point to respin new PCB design, since both Titan X Pascal and GTX 1080 Ti have same package and essentially are same thing, just different configuration of active blocks. This is not a new trick, we saw it years ago on cards like GeForce 8800 GTS and GeForce 9600 GSO, and others. Photo below shows old 8800 GTS card, which I had some 10 years ago. That card had 320-bit bus, derived from full 384-bit GeForce 8800 GTX full G80-based design.


Image 3: Back to future, EVGA GeForce 8800 GTS ACS3 KO with removed memory chips

And no, it's not unlockable even if you put BGA memory chips on the PCB. This is hinted by -K1 code on GPU die, which hints on disabled memory controller. Same *Kx* marking was present on G80 above too .



STEP 1 - Prep your bench

Will need set of common tools for successful modding of reference GTX 1080 Ti card, which is similar to any other VGA.

* Card itself. EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FE used here to play with.
* 1 x 5 KOhm multi-turn VRs (trim pots) for GPU vmod.
* 2 x 50 KOhm multi-turn VR (trim pot) for memory and PLL mod.
* 3 x 10 Ohm chip resistors, 0805 size.
* 25-45W soldering iron for trimpot mods, 80-120W for EPOWER.
* Roll of 28-32AWG insulated wire
* Soldering FLUX
* Kingpincooling TEK9 FAT
* DMM (I use fancy handheld Fluke 87V and high-performance Keithley 2002, but any 10$ DMM can fit needs of this guide)
* Low-ESR capacitors (2.5 or 4V rated, 680-820uF , etc) if you like to juice things up, but not required.



Design is fairly similar to previous refresh x80 cards from NVIDIA, such as GTX 780Ti/980Ti and Titan series. We have GPU in center with eleven Micron GDDR5X memory ICs around. DVI interface is now gone to give space for larger exchaust footprint. GPU bears GP102-350-Kx-A1 marking, which tells you it's larger *102* series processor (to remind you, GTX 1080 based on GP104, Titan X Pascal use GP102-400, pro Tesla P100 with HBM - GP100), silicon revision A1. It was manufactured by TSMC Taiwan. GPU area is similar to previous generation processors, but have much more transistor gates due to much smaller 16nm FinFET node process. There are some 0201 decoupling capacitors around GPU die to help with power delivery. No hidden jumpers, traces or test points are visible on the package elsewhere, so nothing to worry about. SLI and PCIe connectors look exactly same as before, no magic there. For high 5K/8K resolutions and multi-monitor surround you might want to use new SLI HB bridges, which connect both SLI fingers in 2-way SLI setup.

STEP P - Power limit overrides

Often gamers and users are mistakenly referring to 6-pin or 8-pin MiniFit.JR connectors as 75W or 150W capable inputs. Nothing can be further from truth. These power levels are nothing but just way for NV determine how capable is used board hardware in terms of power delivery system. It's imaginary target number and have nothing to do with actual power taken from connector nor power input capability. Software and NV BIOS will handle GPU clocks and reduce voltages if measured power hitting programmed BIOS limit (which can and usuall is different value than 75/150W per connector!).

If you intend to do serious overclocking and benchmarking, it may be required to trick power monitoring circuitry to report lower power reading, so you not run into power throttle. Also to make sure we are not at any physical limit of power connector itself, check Molex 26-01-3116 specifications, which have specifications both 13A *per contact* (16AWG wire in small connector) to 8.5A/contact (18AWG wire).

This means that using common 18AWG cable, 6-pin connector specified for 17A of current (3 contacts for +12V power, 2 contacts for GND return, one contact for detect). 8-pin have 25.5A current specification (3 contacts for +12V power, 3 contacts for GND return and 2 contacts for detection). This is 204W at +12.0V level or 306W for 8-pin accordingly.

Now if somebody tells you that 6-pin can't provide more than 75W, you know they don't understand the topic very well. It's not the connector itself or cable limit the power, but active regulation of GPU/BIOS/Driver according to detection of used cables and preprogrammed limits. So now we getting to know how actual power measured?

Just like GTX 1080 FE card is also using already known Texas Instruments INA3221 sensor IC, which is triple-channel monitor able to measure voltage, current and power on +12VDC input rails using just few external components and current shunts. Current shunt is special type of resistor which generate little, but measurable voltage which closely depends on amount of current flowing thru it. Thus card can detect power consumption in real-time and adjust its clock speed and performance automatically to keep power within specified envelope.

You can find current shunts which are marked *RS1, RS2, RS3* on PCB with black resistive element in center and often with R002 or R005 or 2M0/5M0 mark on top. Sometimes there are no marks, but look is always very similar, like a large rectangular flat part with two or four wide metal terminals. Usually these shunts are located very close to input power connectors before the main VRM circuitry. If we manage to reduce voltage signal (which is in linear dependance from current) from these shunts, then reported power limit will be reduced as well. Don't do anything with these shunts, just understand what they are for. Common "modifications" like applying liquid metal paste or using pencil are bad idea, as they do not provide reliable and static resistance change. Pascal cards have also protection against under-reporting, meaning that GPU will be stuck in low power state if reported power is zero or around that.

Adding 10Ohm 0805 size resistor on top of every larger ceramic capacitor next to INA3221 *U26* will reduce power levels about x3 times. These chip resistors can be bought in usual electronics shop, or online at retailers like Digikey, Mouser. In worst case you still can use usual thru-hole resistor, but it's not as convenient and you risking damaging caps or ripping traces off the board if you apply physical force on the joints.

I don't show actual photo of this mod, as it's nearly the same as in [url=/guide/pascal_oc/]GTX 1080[/url] case. This modification also very similar for all other NVIDIA cards, with bit more details covered here and here before.

STEP G - GPU Voltage trim-pot mod

First and usually most viable modification is one to adjust GPU core voltage. Often (but not always!) extra voltage can help to get better stability and higher clocks, given no temperature or power limitations are hit. Maximum available voltage thru software only control on reference cards are very limited, so hence you may need hardware modification to achieve higher voltages.

Prepare VR's, in this case one 5 KOhm nominal resistance multiturn variable resistor (potentiometers). I like to use very common blue square 3296 type. There are many electronic components retailers have these available for sale, and it should be easy to find suitable resistors from your local store.

Now remove two resistors marked in red box on photo below to enable adjustment on feedback sense.

Glue 5 KOhm trimmer on the PCB like shown on photo below, to make sure it does not rip off or short anything later on. Sometimes I also use 2-position jumper pins to add ability of disabling mod to get stock voltage on the fly. That could be useful for troubleshooting later. Two AWG32-28 wires will be needed to connect trimmer to specific points.


Example location of all three Vcore,VMEM,Vpex trimmers

Middle pin connected to point on top pad of removed resistor. Other trimmer pin connects to ground. Make sure you set resistor to maximum value (resistance measured by DMM across both wires, not connected to anything), which should be around 5 KOhm. Not a good idea to boot card right at the maximum voltage! Solder wires to tiny spots near GPU voltage controller (uP9511P IC on the bottom side of the board).


Connection points of trimmer to raise GPU voltage

Since traces and solder points on PCB are very thin and easy to peel off, make sure you fix the wire to PCB in few places, so it does not move. I found use of few cyanoacrylate superglue drops on areas free from components good enough. This will ensure modification is safely secured and will not rip apart tiny components so easy.

You can go as high as 1.5+V with this kind of modification easily, so it does also can be suitable for extreme overclocking. New 7-phase VRM can provide plenty of power for card, even when pushed over 2400MHz on GPU.

p(#side_note). Note that GPU resistance on Pascal GPUs is very low, opposite to many previous GPU generations. I measured it around 70-150 mOhm (0.09-0.15 Ohm), depending on GPU sample. Measurement was done using four-wire resistance measurement method with expensive high-accuracy Keithley Model 2002 DMM.

If you plan to use waterblock or Kingpincooling TEK9 LN2 container as GPU cooler, make sure you have good 120mm fan over VRM area to ensure good airflow and acceptable temperatures (best under 70°C) when overclocking. 1080Ti's PG611 reference design PCB have all seven phases fully implemented for GPU power with two PowerPhase arrays on each phase.

STEP M - Memory voltage trim-pot mod

Memory VRM using single phase, with same as Vcore VRM PowerPhase dual NFET and output fixed 1.35V for GDDR5X memory chips.


Modified memory circuit to raise voltage

To raise voltage all you need to do is just 50KOhm trimmer to GND at marked point.

STEP L - PLL Voltage trim-pot mod

PLL regulator is common and known from previous GPUs, so nothing new here. PWM chip used is uPI UP1628Q in tiny DFN package. Modification to raise voltage on it is straight forward and involve connection of 50KOhm trimmer to GND and point on the photo above.


Connected trimmer wire and monitoring point

Monitoring of PLL voltage output can be done by soldering wire to location of three resistors near bottom left GPU fan-sink mount hole.

End result might look like this:



With trim pots wiring. You can see blue wire to connect ground at unused power connector.



h2. STEP S - BONUS%

Extreme overclockers often like to put some brutal bodges over their cards, so here are locations to add more capacitors:


8-point mount of LN2 container on GTX 1080 Ti and probe points

Best to have full 8-points brackets to ensure good and even mount pressure across all GPU sides. It's compatible with all TEK9 FAT and TEK9 SLIM containers and can be bought separately on Kingpincooling.com shop

Check again, if everything good, no shorts on the card or damaged parts, solder blobs or dirt. Make sure all trimpots are set to proper value.
Assemble your cooling solution to a card, test voltages and give it a spin on overclocking, using EVGA Precision XOC 16.

As usual, any feedback and questions are appreciated. Feel free to share link to this guide, but keep links and references intact, as guide likely to be updated in future.
Latest version of this guide also mirror on source, http://forum.kingpincooling.com/showthread.php?t=3961

KnightSparda escribió:En un Sli cambia el tema, pero en monogpu, a ti te dará igual, pero todo el que tiene una founders te dice que a partir de un 80% suena como una maldita aspiradora, y es insoportable, y yo al menos con la Xtreme 1080 con los ventiladores sin pasar del 50% la gráfica no pasaba de 65º a plena carga y era inaudible, a eso me refiero, si en torno al 70% es extremadamente molesto, y no me valen opiniones tipo: "yo las tengo al 100% y me da igual"

KnightSparda escribió:Hombre tio me estás diciendo que ¿no son mejores cuando con el ventilador a la mitad de velocidad y 10 veces menos ruido no son menos molestas? Otro tema ya es la calidad de los materiales, que si que es cierto que las FE tienen un pintón, y además estéticamente me parecen una pasada
Aunque el ruido te de igual, siempre existe el throtling que es inevitable, hasta cierto punto, y aunque no llegues a el, ya te digo que un 100% un ventilador de turbina muy agradable no es, incluso con cascos tiene que ser audible, y si tienes gente cerca a ellos les haces la pascua, que es otra cosa a tener en cuenta xD, por eso principalmente preguntaba hasta que punto a un 70% de velocidad de fan, podría ocear una FE sin throtling y sin un ruido insoportable.

evilkainn_ escribió:@barcinodrg tienes q tener una tolerancia al ruido muy alta, en serio.

Yo la 7970 de turbina , jugando me tapa hasta el sonido del monitor. La oigo incluso con los cascos puestos.

Es como una aspiradora aprox.

Y eso sin ponerla al 100℅ del ventilador , que como mucho estará sobre el 60-70℅

liskdapps escribió:Esta grafica se va a calentar cosa mala, tiene muchos cores y para sacarle todo el potencial, un kit de liquida de unos 100€ es mas que suficiente para sacarle musculo y no sufrir con los ruidos, si no lo pilláis ahora, para verano va a ser más que recomendable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQ-Y08enNG0

lolanoduermesola escribió:

Titán_Salvaje_ escribió:

Beacher escribió:Confirmo lo de los drivers de Nvidia. Con una 980Ti tengo el GTA V todo a full, todo, AA x16, y el MSSA 2X,reflejos MSSA 2Xy, a ojo diría que va a 45-50 fps. Con la 1080Ti volaremos!

GTA V con una 1080 TI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yBQB2J_noE

la hierba Ultra y el MSAA 8X no se llevan bien

ostia que triste no? a 4k ya sufriendo estragos en temperaturas y frecuencias una 1080ti, yo acabo de encontrar un video de un sli de 980ti con oc moderado a 5k ultra a 60fps . Con mucho mejores temps y fps. Piensa que de 4k a 5k bajsa 40/50 fps de media como poco.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qbu1TdpcHLE

barcinodrg escribió:OC 2012 core clock (+176), 6102 memory clock(+597), tengo puesto heaven, mas ya peta, seguire haciendo pruebas.. que os parece? temperatura 68° ventilador al 90%

GhostChll escribió:

barcinodrg escribió:OC 2012 core clock (+176), 6102 memory clock(+597), tengo puesto heaven, mas ya peta, seguire haciendo pruebas.. que os parece? temperatura 68° ventilador al 90%

ventilador al 90% tiene que sonar bastante no?

barcinodrg escribió:OC 2012 core clock (+176), 6102 memory clock(+597), tengo puesto heaven, mas ya peta, seguire haciendo pruebas.. que os parece? temperatura 68° ventilador al 90%

KnightSparda escribió:

barcinodrg escribió:OC 2012 core clock (+176), 6102 memory clock(+597), tengo puesto heaven, mas ya peta, seguire haciendo pruebas.. que os parece? temperatura 68° ventilador al 90%

Comprueba el rendimiento con la memoria tan subida, porque está comprobado que llega un punto que subir la memoria mucho reduce el rendimiento y no mejora, haz pruebas a ver si sacas más fps en un heaven con la memoria a +400.

FZ1 escribió:@troon95 Pues es muy buena puntuación, aunque el unigine lo has pasado en modo ventana, probablemente a pantalla completa te suba.
Para los que tenemos 1080, es mejor esperar y hacerse un SLI.
Mi puntuación con SLI sin tocar nada.
http://subefotos.com/ver/?ded71acd93b7f ... 4f68bo.jpg

FZ1 escribió:@troon95 Pues es muy buena puntuación, aunque el unigine lo has pasado en modo ventana, probablemente a pantalla completa te suba.
Para los que tenemos 1080, es mejor esperar y hacerse un SLI.
Mi puntuación con SLI sin tocar nada.
http://subefotos.com/ver/?ded71acd93b7f ... 4f68bo.jpg